Sea of Burgundy... (Dec 12)

How often do you have a chance... an opportunity like this?
Sitting in Bodh Gaya and hearing that the Dalai Lama is giving a five day teaching in McLeod Ganj... is it possible?? Can anyone go? Will there be space or will every hotel room be fully booked with pilgrims all wanting the chance to see him? How can we possibly pass up this chance?
No excuses... no "ya but's", no petty inconveniences could possibly be big enough for us not to jump at the chance.

We got up early and followed the stream of people headed to the temple. The line was split into men on the right and women on the left... they had the appropriate sex searching each line. No cameras, no cell phones, no knives, etc etc... It was like going through airport security complete with a metal detector. We walked up the stairs to the elevated terrace that surrounds the temple proper. The temple and terrace were both already jam packed with people... monks in burgundy robes and pilgrims from across the globe sitting in almost every inch of available space. We squeezed in along a railing at the far left of the temple and put down our Thermarest. We had brought it to sit on with the hopes of making sitting on the floor all day a little more comfortable.

As we looked out across all the people sitting and waiting, it was like looking over a sea of burgundy. The monks were seated cross legged in long lines, fit together almost like lego. If one got tired, they would just lean their heads against the monk in front of them and nap. The sun was slanting in, lighting the faces filled with anticipation... everyone seemed to be practically glowing! When the Dalai Lama and his entourage came up the stairs, the surge of energy from the group was almost overwhelming!

First up the stairs were some monks carrying incense, followed by a soldier with a very large, very mean looking gun, the Dalai Lama himself and some more monks. He looked so happy, just smiling and waving to people. He would occasionally stop to say something or shake hands with someone on the edge of the crowd. Everyone was standing and smiling and pretty much bursting just to be there. I've never been much of a groupie of any sort be it screaming women at rock concerts or paparazzi stalking major movie stars but, I will admit, I am a complete Dalai Lama groupie. There was just something about him that created such a rush of good feelings... how could you not be?

The group circumambulated and entered the temple. The inside of the temple was jammed with monks and they had set up a TV in one of the side rooms so that the monks packed inot it could watch. The teaching was in Tibetan, broadcast around the compound on loud speakers. It was then translated into Korean on the loudspeakers (the Korean students had arranged the teaching) and English translation was transmitted on FM radio. We had brought the radio I had picked up in Bodh Gaya but we were experiencing technical difficulties tuning in the station. This was partly due to the fact that we had no idea what frequency was being used. We fiddled for awhile and eventually just gave up and sat and soaked up the vibe instead.

I have to say it again - we still can't believe it!! We're sitting in McLeod Ganj... in India... listening to a teaching on Buddhism by the Dalai Lama... Pinch us!!! We must be dreaming!

Mid-morning, a group of monks started to move through the crowds carrying giant tea kettles. We had forgotten our cup so we missed out on the tea. There are 2,000 to 3,000 people jammed into this space but the monks do manage, somehow, to serve everyone. There was a break for lunch and one of the monks told us that it would start up again at 1:30.

Through the crush of people and up to our favourite Tibetan vegetarian restaurant. It's not very big, only 5 tables, so when it's full, you just share with someone. We ended up sitting with a German mother and son. I'm sure I'll get it wrong but I think her name was Gurula and her son's name I can't even try to spell! He has been in McLeod Ganj for 4 1/2 months studying Tibetan medicine and she had just come from the south where she had been attending a holistic health convention. She has been studying Chinese Holistic medicine and when she retires (in 2 years) she is going to practice full time. Very interesting people! While at lunch we also ran into Joanne, a girl we had met in yoga class the first time we were here a few weeks ago. It was like old home week! Everyone who visits here seems to be drawn back... or just can't bring themselves to leave in the first place.

After lunch we moved to the other side of the temple. I'd noticed some signs indicating a section for English translation listeners. I guess the FM signal wasn't strong enough on the other side and that was why we couldn't get any reception. We found a small square of real estate. It was much easier to follow what was going on once we could tune in the English translation!!

We were sitting at the back, against a railing overlooking some of the temple complex buildings. I heard a noise in the trees above us and looked up to see an entire clan of monkeys! I guess they had come to listen as well.

The crush of people exiting the temple at the end of the lecture reminded me of being on Parliament Hill on Canada Day. We were packed like sardines! The monk in Bodh Gaya had told us that Tibetans tend to be rough with their bodies but soft in their speech (while Westerners tend toward the other way around). This was pretty evident in trying to get through the crowd. Little old Tibetan ladies are tough and definitely don't mess around... oh, and they're stronger than they look! If you don't keep moving, they'll give you a push to make sure you keep moving!

We hit the movie theatre to catch Charlie and the Chocolate Factory... dinner... blogging... and bed!