The Wild and Wonderful Adventures of Horse and Dog

Wanna go on an adventure? We're turning left and jumping off the treadmill. Let's see where we are today....

Thursday, October 20, 2005

Take a Deep Breath, Keep Your Head About You and Keep Moving!

We slept - boy did we sleep!

We didn't get up until 2:30 in the afternoon and I think the only reason we did get up was because we were hungry! We decided to have lunch at a leisurely pace in the hotel restaurant. Another favourite - Dahl Makani, more veg briyani and, of course, Naan.

Peeking through the curtains of the restaurant for the first glimpse of daylight and daily activity in Delhi - life outside the window was a stark contrast to the comfort we were sitting in.The chaos doesn't seem to cease. There doesn't seem to be a "rush hour" as we know it. It's just a constant flow of people and traffic (and we're on a side street). Across the road there is a woman and small child sitting on a cot the size of a double bed next to a sort of lean to. I think this is where they live.

After breakfast, we put on our sunscreen, grab our cameras, take a deep breath and step outside.

Complete unbridled, unsensored, unapologetic, unashamed humanity. Everyone is friendly, some offer their assistance in the hopes you will purchase their services. Some are just being friendly. While you do have to keep your wits about you (especially as you dodge all forms of traffic in the street) contrary to the initial ingrained reaction, they are not all out to rip you off.



It is warm... hot even. But its not stinking Toronto in July hot. The sky is brown with a constant haze and the air is constantly filled with the sound of traffic and horns on cars. We walked to the railway station a little way from the hotel to buy our tickets for Agra. The walk is around a kilometre or so.

What did we see? People walking, dogs sleeping under cars, sewage and garbage in the streets, vendors selling nuts and fried snacks off of trolleys, people sleeping under bridges and on cots - oh ya... and the constant flow of people and cars.

The train station didn't seem to have any benches so there were people sleeping everywhere and anywhere - on the floor... on the stairs even! (It didn't really look all that comfortable to me but he didn't seem to mind) The tourist office was upstairs in an official airconditioned room. We sat for a few moments and deciphered the ceiling to floor train schedule that hung on the wall, confirmed our understanding with the help desk and purchased our tickets. I've noticed that tourists are really kept track of here. Passport numbers are used in hotel bookings and train ticket purchases - and, when you are in the hotel, you have to give them your subsequent destination. Interesting!

On the streets, the shops are simple, open air rooms (for lack of a better term) with big steel roll up garage doors. There was food and clothing and marble carving. One of the workers was carving a marble sign in the doorway to his shop - hard work! We didn't walk far by any means but there was still so much to see!!!

We decided to walk back to the hotel and chill out for the rest of the day. We went up to the roof again and drank coca cola from old style glass bottles while we watched the sun set. At sun set, what sounded like air raid sirens started to go off. I think maybe it was the signal for the time for prayer for the Muslim community. The Unlimited Buffet (translation... all you can eat) looked and smelled delicious but we were still full from lunch.

From the roof we could see a gymnasium where men were lifting weights. It was a simple, open air, concrete building with a courtyard that reminded me of a prison yard more than any Goodlife I'd ever been in.

After we were suitably chilled out, we headed down to the internet room in the hotel to type our first blog entries and impressions of this totally amazing country. (which I'm sure you've already fully consumed and are hungry for more!!)
Then... yep you guessed it... bed!

Tuesday, October 18, 2005

So Long and Thanks for All the Fish

So... just to let you know... this will mostly be from Heather's point of view just because I type faster....

I wonder if the malaria pills are creating the weird dreams, the champagne, the late hour we went to bed... who knows but man that was weird! Oh... time to get up. Do we have everything?

Clean sheets waiting for when we get home, pack the remaining stuff from the fridge that will go bad while we're away (send it home with Blaine), eat some fruit, some bread, drink some Mimosa, go through the final checklist, the idiot check, the double check... yet even with all that we managed to leave the mango defrosting in the microwave (doh!!). A quick call and luckily MeShell is on the case (hopefully!)

Blaine is right on time, one more final check and we're off!

Breezed through airport check in - it pays to arrive 3 1/2 hours before your flight.
Checked out the duty free, wandered around Terminal 1 and, of course, since the T1 gates won't actually be completed until 2007, we had to take a shuttle to the infiled terminal to get our gate.

They let me take my trekking pole as carry on so while we were bussing to the terminal a man asked us where we were off to.
He is an environmental lawyer who studied at Dalhousie and was on his way to Trinidad to give a talk. He used to teach in India and he and his wife had taken their four (yes four) kids (all 10 and under) across India for a month a few years ago. He also told us that when he and his wife got married (1988) they spent four months travelling around Africa on their honeymoon with a tent, a stove and $800. How cool is that?!?!?

We ended up in the emergency exit aisle for the first leg of our flight to Milan. Did you know you can do a pretty reasonable yoga practice squeezed into an emergency exit aisle? This is if your seat partner doesn't mind stretching out over two seats (oh, and if you don't mind the weird looks either). Definitely something to consider!
Viparita Karani is a bit interesting since your head kind of feels like it's sticking out into the aisle as people are walking by.

The movie was Bewitched - Brad said it had funny bits but wasn't really worth it.

We landed in Milan and hung out at the airport for a few hours waiting to make our connection. It was foggy when we landed so we couldn't really see any of the city and the airport wasn't really anything to look at. There were several shops in the airport selling some serious designer clothes.
There was a Ferrari store, a Nike store and a lingerie store where you could pick up that last minute gift for your wife to make up for being away. By this point - yep, we're tired.

Back on the plane and we're off again. I could barely keep my eyes open long enough to get a glimpse of the city! We slept - finally! Out cold.

We woke up when they started serving food - lunch? dinner? No idea really... what time was it... I guess that depends on where you are! In the end, it didn't really matter except we were hungry. Eat, sleep, read, walk around, stretch - yep, another long flight.
Alitalia - as Brad put it - attendants practice extreme indifference. They were not rude but then again, they also weren't all that friendly. The binging of the attendant call button was pretty constant (and I mean every 5 seconds or so at some points - yes... I'm serious). People were falling asleep pressed against the button. The call buttons therefore, were totally ignored. After dinner was served and cleared, if you wanted anything, it was self serve. There was a drink cart in the galley and people pretty much just served themselves (including wine).

So let's see... Blaine's car, the bus to the infield, a plane, the terminal in Milan, a bus to the plane, a plane, bus to terminal - and we're there! Now that wasn't so hard... was it!

Oh, ya... just before we landed one of the crew walked through the cabin spraying air freshener. I'm not sure if that was because of the air in Delhi or the fact that the bathrooms were starting to get pretty ripe on the plane.

Landing... the city was huge. The smell started, subtly, just after we descended below 10,000 feet (well, I couldn't really smell it but Brad could - a blessing of allergies?)
Brad described it as a combination of burning rubber, eggs and dirt.
I wasn't an overpowering smell at all, just a "fragrance" that kind of hung in the air. I started to get a hint of it when we landed and especially once I got outside.

I'm sure people's first impressions are influenced by the aroma of the place - we seem to entirely forget that we have our own cities with their own special "perfume".

My first thought on disembarking was that living in Toronto prepared me pretty well. It didn't seem strange to me at all that I was surrounded by foreign people speaking a language that I didn't understand. The terminal luggage area was large and bright and soft music was playing. It reminded me a bit of the music in Peru.
(Note to self... carry small rupee denominations for the washroom attendants since you will likely want to use as soon as you get off the plane)

We picked up our bags and headed out of the luggage area. So, contrast this... large open bright luggage area... step through the sliding doors ... taxi sellers start calling you, a metal railing running along both sides of the exit is holding a large number of people back who are waiting for arrivals. On the right were what seemed like hundreds of welcome signs for people being picked up by thier hotels, on the left and at the back was the occasional tour sign and just lots of people.
We had prearranged a pick up from the hotel we were staying at and, similar to being in Peru, I'm glad we did!

We couldn't find our welcome sign so we exited the gauntlet, parked ourselves near a post and started hunting for a phone to call the hotel. Somehow, the hotel person found us. We were told to wait, our driver was on the way.

Our driver arrived and we followed him out of the terminal, another drastic change when we walked outside. People are now combined with cars and buses and auto rickshaws and the occassional dog.

We walked to the jeep where he was parked and climbed in for our most interesting journey to the hotel.

My initial observations on traffic - there are no rules. There were lines painted on the "highway" but they appeared to be irrelevant. The number and locations of the lanes was fluid but, as we drove, I realized that even in chaos there is order. The roads had trucks and cars and bicycle rickshaws and autorickshaws and people and vendors pushing carts and horse and buggies - yet somehow it was all moving along better than any traffic jam I've ever witnessed in Toronto. Horns and highbeams were used to signal turning, passing and displeasure. I would need an interpreter to know which ws which.

When we got closer to the core was when the numbers and variety of vehicles increased. We had stumbled into a jam caused by a large parade and celebration. The driver said it was for Dhurga but later we found out that festival was actually four days ago. This festival was for the birthday of the author who wrote a big book about the gods (Rama or something like that). There were flatbed trucks decorated with flowers and filled with people celebrating. Our driver tried some pretty tricky moves to find a way around (including going the wrong way down a street) but it was no good - we had to wait for the road to clear. In the end it took over an hour to reach our hotel but it didn't really matter, it was an amazing scene to watch. At some points I felt like I was dropped into a movie set. I even saw a few cows just hanging out.

What really caught my attention (again) was the contrasts. Delhi is huge and overpopulated. The air is thicker with pollution than the worst smog day in Toronto. Everything, everywhere seems to be covered in a thick coat of dust. Even the trees are dusty. This gives a very drab colourless scene. Puntuate that with women wearing the most bright, beautiful, colourful saris I've ever seen.

We did reach the hotel safely and stepped from the caucaphony outside into a "quiet" hotel lobby. We checked in, dumped our bags and took the elevator (run by an operator - metal gates and all) to the rooftop restaurant. It was now after midnight and we were starving (again!). It will be interesting to see the view from the roof in daylight. The moon was full, there was a variety of furniture (white patio chairs, black iron, etc) and a lighted fountain for atmosphere. Chana Masala, Veg Briyani, Naan and Masala Chai - Yum!! All that and a bottle of water and only $142 rupees ($4.00). How cheap! That taken care of and a quick bucket rinse -- time for sleep!

Catching up....

Some people commented that there was only one post... they wanted updates (even though we hadn't left yet!)

So... backtracking a bit...

One month to go.... "We need how many shots!!"
New Rule : Neither of us are allowed to go to the adventure store alone!

One week to go... Packing...

Picture me (Heather) sitting in the middle of the living room feeling completely overwhelmed. How the hell was all this stuff ever even have the remotest possibilty of fitting into two 70 litre packs? Are we nuts? (Don't answer that!)
I was freaking out.
How many pairs of underwear do you need for two months?
It might snow in the mountains but its going to be 30 degrees in Delhi.
How small can you compress a fleece sleeping bag liner?
Packing, repacking, adding, subtracting...
The biggest question - If it does fit... can we carry it????

T minus 1 day and counting... the night before we leave.

So the bags seem to be packed, go through the final checklist(s), last minute racing around, get copies, drive to Belleville to meet Shelley and hand off the kittens, dinner at the Lai Lai with the Y "International Food Group" to say a final goodbye to us and to Dustin (crazy ass took a "tough" job at the Club Med in Punta Cana and was also leaving the next day).

We were so well prepared. We had lists and we had plenty of time. Then why were we up until after 2 am the night before we left? OK - so it takes longer to load an MP3 player with the music you want to carry around with you for two months than you ever plan for. Two am? That's ok - we can sleep in. Blaine's not arriving until noon to shuttle us to the airport.

A glass of champagne and off to bed.