To Boldly Go... (Nov 19)

We decided to take the trek to Bhagsu today. It's a small village a couple of km from McLeod Ganj. The guide books indicated that there was a nice hike to a waterfall (Joanna said it was a nice walk and that the cafe above the falls was good).

We had breakfast, grabbed our packs and cameras and set off. The walk to Bhagsu is fairly easy running along a paved road set into the side of the mountain (much like everything else is set into the side of the mountain). The small tea stands along the way seem precariously perched, balancing one edge on the side of the road, held up in the rear by flimsy looking stilts. Sivadas told me that they often have small tremours but he didn't seem all that concerned about it.

We reached Bhagsu and a choice - the road forked off in several directions and road signs seem pretty much non existent in India. We consulted the map, made a (somewhat) educated guess and headed off down the right fork. A few minutes later, we came across a small temple that had a cold spring bath. The water was gushing out of the mouths of three fishy looking characters into a large pool that then overflowed into a bathing pool. Even though the water was cold, there was one person using the bath.

We seemed at a dead end. There didn't seem to be any roads leading anywhere from here let alone to the waterfall. Then Brad noticed an old faded sign on a wall next to an archway that said "waterfall this way". We guessed right! Imagine that!

We wound through a narrow passage and came to the entrance to a trail we could see snaked its way along the side of the mountain overlooking a stream below. It was laundry day and there were clothes and blankets stretched out over the boulders on the banks of the stream drying in the sun. There was a group of children splashing about and playing in the water creating echoing laughter up the valley. The faded sign at the start of the trail said that the path was closed due to danger. The sign looked pretty old and we figured it was just a CYA so we went ahead anyway. If we came to a landslide and couldn't go on safely, we'd just turn back.

It was a really nice trail. Much of it had been paved with large stones cemented together and stairs formed with the proliferous shale stone. We reached the waterfall without incident. It was funny to find a small stand selling chips and snacks right at the base of the waterfall but I guess he must get enough business.

We took some photos and started up the path next to the falls. There is a cafe above the falls called Shiva Cafe. It has some of the best chai and some really nice gardens where you can relax in the shade and cool off from your climb. In the summer it also has a pool fed by springs for swimming in.

Many of the rocks in the area are flat, smooth and flake almost in layers like shale. Every little nook and cranny of the gardens and the cafe had stones that had been used as canvas where artists and people passing had left their messages... impressions... inspirations. It was a garden filled not only with flowers, but with art. One of the stones had a quote from Goethe, "Whatever you dream, begin it now. Boldness has a power and magic in it."

We relaxed under a tree for awhile and let our feet cool. It's a bit of a climb up to the cafe and we'd worked up a bit of a thirst. We watched two local dogs getting friendly with three Austrian women who were eating some sausage they'd brought with them. They were refueling before venturing on to trek a bit higher.

On the walk back down we were stopped twice. Once by a group of eight or nine men who were on a tour and wanted a photo taken with Brad and I (they, of course, also had eight or nine cameras) and once at the bottom of the trail by two young men who simply wanted us to take their photo.

On emerging back at the crossroads, we were considering continuing the loop to Dharmakot to eventually end up back in McLeod Ganj but it was getting later in the day and we weren't positive of the route. We headed back the way we'd come.

On the road, on the way back we stopped at the Jungle Hut. It's an open air restaurant done up like it should have been on some Caribbean beach with thatched roof and drinks with umbrellas. I had a strawberry soda just for fun. As we sat looking out over the valley, a parade of women wearing brightly coloured saris went by accompanied by a large number of children. We think that it was the end of the school day and that the women were walking the children home.

As we continued on our way, Sivadas and Joanna passed us on their motorbike. They had been out for a ride and were headed back to town. We chatted and decided that we would take one last yoga class with them the next morning. Since we are leaving Monday, we spent the rest of the afternoon shopping for the small trinkets we wanted to pick up. They had to be small since we don't have much room and we really don't want to have to carry too much!

I have a certificate from my massage class and some handouts that I didn't want to get crushed so we also picked up a telescopic document tube. It should come in handy for storing the prayer wheel as well!